Arrival Panama08 April 2021 | 09 22.025'N:79 56.642'W,
Weather; dull and overcast, wind 11 - 15 knots aft, waves 3 feet.
Shelter Bay Marina, Cristobel, Panama

- Hand steering for 11 hours.jpeg (16.02 KiB) Viewed 23047 times
Here's Gerry a surprise email I received this morning, not expecting anything until at least Sunday 10th April.
But no passage is free of surprises.
Swift first day sailing with 184 miles on the clock, which included a slow harbor departure plus the time taken to gather in and rehoist the jib.
2nd day with lighter winds and falling seas but autopilot issues meant we had to hand steer for 11 hours. More on the autopilot later. Gerry. To break up Nicky's interesting account I will add 5 images from Cartegena.
Back to Nicky.
To repeat that often quoted Captain Ron saying "if it's going to happen, it'll happen out there" and it's official we must now be in another exotic place as we have stuff to fix - boat ownership is so much fun said no one ever!
Well here we are sitting in Shelter Bay Marina, Panama, we arrived in Panama at 3.30am after another exciting day on the water. When I left off yesterday we were making incredible progress to the point that we had reefed in just about everything in a bid to slow us down somewhat. As the day progressed we continued to make good speed until the point where we had to make a slight turn towards the land which had the effect of bringing the wind directly behind us, we had to start up the engine as the wind was now dropping in speed so the rest of the day was spent motor sailing, we even took the reefing point out of the main sail to try and get us moving along a bit better.
Nothing very exciting was happening so I decided to go below and see if I could grab a couple of hours sleep as neither of us had slept enough in the first 24 hours. I stopped to have a shower as the water was really hot from having the engine running and then headed to our forward bunk to lay down. I kid you not, I hadn't been there for half an hour when Gerry yelled down to me that he was going out on deck, saying that I could stay put - this isn't in the agreement, we always have 2 people topside if anyone is going to do stupid stuff like go out on deck, so I hauled myself out into the cockpit to find out why Gerry needed to go out on deck. Arriving just as he was attaching his harness to the jack line I quickly got the word that he was going to take the preventer across to the other side and gybe as the wind had veered further to the opposite side. Whilst it was true that I didn't need to do much, I think he felt safer knowing that I was topside ready to sail away without him if he went overboard or attempt to save him, depending on how I was feeling in the moment! Once the gybe was completed and we were settled back into the moving forward I took myself back down to the bunk for a second time to try and get a nana nap in. I didn't get to sleep but made the most of laying down and doing nothing until about 3.40 when I returned to the cockpit and wished that I hadn't.

- Student by Edgardo Carmon.jpeg (108.85 KiB) Viewed 23045 times
I was greeted by Gerry saying that George (our auto pilot) had spat the dummy and was playing up. What could he possibly mean I was stupid enough to ask - well the auto pilot had suddenly stopped steering us on our course line and had taken off and was trying to round us up into wind.
Gerry had corrected the error and was watching it only to see it repeat the same action a couple of seconds later. This was not a good thing as we still had 65 nautical miles to go at this point, all of which would be during the evening/night and it was probably going to mean that we would have to hand steer for the rest of the way unless we could work out what was going on with George.
Gerry ran through all the easy testing and fault-finding stuff but we still had the same result - the auto pilot would engage for a few seconds and then grind to a halt, rounding us up into wind rather than keeping us on course. Having done all of the easy stuff it was time to consider the worse-case scenarios, none of which could be sorted out and fixed whilst we were underway, we were down to having to hand steer for the rest of the trip - oh rap with a silent C!

- Seamstress by Edgardo Carmon.jpeg (145.18 KiB) Viewed 23045 times
And so began the very long night of hand steering to get us to Panama. The sea had by now dropped away to almost flat calm so at least we weren't having to deal with horrible wave action but trying to keep the boat on track is much harder than you would think.
Our wheel is 4 foot in diameter which is pretty large to keep having to turn and correct all the time, Gerry has it a bit easier than I do as he is tall enough to hold on to our overhead rails with one hand whilst the other is turning the wheel, this way he can stop himself from stumbling as the boat rocks with the wind or the boat needs to change direction. I can't reach the rails so I have to brace hard against the seat behind my legs and hope that the boat doesn't jolt me too hard or I end up flying across the cockpit.
Why don't you sit down is the next obvious question - well you can't as the wheel is just a little too far from the seat to be able to control the movement so you really do have to be standing, plus you can't see the readout very well from a sitting position - certainly not well enough to quickly react to the slightest change of course. Add into the mix that night was now upon us and there was no moon to give us any visual help and it was a recipe for something to go badly wrong. Gerry, love him, took more than his fair share of the hand steering, we both took power naps in the cockpit alternately for the entire night and relived each other as the need arose with the steering rather than trying to do set times.

- Belfry of Cathederal of Cartagena.jpeg (171.78 KiB) Viewed 23045 times
Try as I might, I fought to keep the track at 238 degrees which was the one to get us into Panama, in the blink of an eye (or the puff of a wind gust) the track would be up to 260 or down to 210 degrees which I would then overcorrect - it wasn't a fun time!
I've mentioned that it was pitch black and you couldn't see a thing, not helped by staring intently at the bright screen of the chart plotter and the readout of the track, but you have to also appreciate that we were approaching one of the busiest shipping areas in the world with the most huge super tankers and cargo carriers imaginable moving along in front and to the side of you looking like black blobs with a couple of navigation lights on them - it was the stuff that nightmares are made of! At least we know our AIS was working well, as at times it was the only way we knew that something was getting within range of contact and I think we would have come off worse than they would have done.

- Barber by Edgardo Carmon.jpeg (107.71 KiB) Viewed 23045 times
We slowly watched the miles count down and were quite relieved when we got to the point where no more super tankers/cargo carriers were allowed, at least if we hit something it would be smallish but there seemed to be very little other small traffic on the water at this point. We radioed the Signal station from 8 miles out, as per directions from our agent and told them of our impending approach, they just told us to call again when we were 2 miles out.
At this point Gerry though it would be prudent to try and put the main away as there was plenty of space and not too much movement around us from other boats. This is another one of those proceedures that George normally takes a starring role in by keeping us pointed into wind whilst I let the main down and Gerry, out on deck, stuffs the sail into the sail bag and tidies up the lines on deck.
We had to rethink the entire process as I was going to have to keep steering the boat and keep it into wind whilst Gerry took the sail down by himself. We had a quick discussion as to the best way to do this and then set about carrying out the plan.
I have a new-found appreciation for the work that George does at this point in the process, it was damn hard to keep the boat into wind as it was blowing at 17 knots and we were going up and down like a fiddlers elbow (or those other things that do in Panama and South American ports
) at this point.
The sail made it into the bag but unfortunately Gerry's hand slipped off of the halyard as he was bringing it back to tie it down and it shot up in the air and wrapped itself around the backstay, Ho Hum, nothing we could do about it for the moment so it stayed there as we turned back on track and headed towards the breakwater entrance.
We called the signal station again once we were close and got the go ahead to proceed along the wall (don't make the mistake of hitting that in the dark) follow the channel marker lights, turn right at the end and head down towards the marina where we had a booking.

- Balcony opposite Palace of the inquisition.jpeg (181.04 KiB) Viewed 23045 times
There was no way we were going to even consider trying to get into the marina in the pitch black of the night so we chose to anchor off just outside of the marina channel for the remainder of the night, get some sleep and then head into the marina in the morning. We headed to the anchoring area, which skirts an area set aside for cargo ships that are carrying explosive material, just to make you feel even more uncomfortable! Anyway we found a spot and dropped the anchor which Gerry didn't think set the first time around so we repeated the whole anchoring process and he was happy with it the second time - just as well as we were both getting quite ratty with each other by now.
Everything got powered down and it was time to crack open a beer before having another shower (yes 2 in one day - oh the expense!) before dropping into bed for the rest of the night.
After 4 hours sleep we were up and tidying away the mess we had abandoned last night, putting stuff away, getting out our Quarantine flag and lowering the Colombian flag - which was filthy, then cable tying a couple of boat hooks together to be able to reach the halyard which was wrapped around the back stay at a height that we couldn't reach - it worked and we managed to get the halyard back down to deck level and fastened off, all before we stopped for breakfast.
It was then time to contact the marina and advise them of our early arrival, get ourselves into a berth and hooked up to power and water.
We had to wait for a short while before going into the marina as there were another couple of boats going in at around the same time but they accommodated our request for a side tie up and were on the dock to catch our lines as we approached, it was a thousand times better than our last tying up and we were soon hooked up to power and water.
All wasn't quite as we had expected though as we apparently have to have 2 covid tests each and 5 days in quarantine on the boat which means that we will be here longer than we originally thought as we have some "fixing" stuff to do - well this must be a really exotic place!
Already Gerry has spent the day pulling the autopilot pump out - this is where he thinks the issue probably originates and apparently one of the brushes is worn and is stuck, we will be needing to replace that at the very least but we will probably try to get an electronics guy check it out for us as we will not be doing the next leg of our trip without the autopilot working properly.
The health person has been down to the boat and swabbed our brain cells via our noses so we are now stuck on our boat for the next 5 days, I'm not sure that we have enough alcohol to get us through the boredom of not being able to do stuff as we can't get to a shop to buy any spares we might need however I'm sure there will be plenty for us to do as the boat is just filthy from our extended stay in Cartagena. I made a start on cleaning our stateroom this afternoon, I've never seen so much dust and dirt, you would think we hadn't cleaned for months!
So now Gerry has just got a sim card sorted out via our agent and we have internet access so we will be binge watching Netflix for the next 5 days before we can get the work done that we had planned for here.
It's 5 o'clock so time for an adult beverage. Oh and by the way our second day ended up with us covering 110 Nautical miles in 18hours - not bad going considering we expected to be at sea for 2.5 days and ended up only taking 42 hours from go to
wo!It will be FWE for a while now, the job list is calling.
Just hope the old Welly boot is not opposite Gerry and Nicky as when I was on her, between the j/e and the pool 4th they managed to add a coating of HFO as boot topping to all the white hulled yatchs in the marina. I suppose it acted as an SPC and also prevented marine growth creating a light brown wave effect to the hull. Very dashing.
On this day HRH the Duke of Edinburgh crossed the bar. A keen yachtsman and an Honorary Past President of the Institute of Marine Engineers.We send our sincere condolances to HM the Queen and the Royal Family at this sad time.